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Author Topic: Simplex XL threading lamp Q
Scott Norwood
Film God

Posts: 8146
From: Boston, MA. USA (1774.21 miles northeast of Dallas)
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 05-25-2001 10:23 PM      Profile for Scott Norwood   Author's Homepage   Email Scott Norwood   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
What would cause the two small bulbs in the door to be unusually dim? I know that they're supposed to be bright enough to provide some light for threading, but this isn't the case in either projector at a local theatre. I'm guessing that this is a function of either a bad transformer (but then why would both machines have bad transformers?) or the wrong voltage bulb being used. What type of bulb is supposed to be used for the threading lamp in the door? What is the output of the transformer supposed to be? Interestingly, the framing lamps in both machines are fine...

Of course this isn't a big deal...it's just annoying and I'm sure that there's an easy fix.


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Bill Enos
Film God

Posts: 2081
From: Richmond, Virginia, USA
Registered: Apr 2000


 - posted 05-25-2001 11:17 PM      Profile for Bill Enos   Email Bill Enos   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The door bulbs in both our XLs are very dim, so dim that in my 16 years I have never replaced one. The framing bulbs are #55, I don't know what the door bulbs are but I'ss check tomorrow.

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Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 05-26-2001 12:08 AM      Profile for Paul G. Thompson   Email Paul G. Thompson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Yeah, they are dim. Several things cause it: Lousy ground through the door hinges, a lousy connection in the terminal block that feeds the door, and a lousy oily terminal block and its connections underneath a lousy cover on the gear side of the projector next to the lousy framing shaft.

Throw in some lousy lamp sockets, and that'll just about cover the problem. Simplex missed the boat on that one.....


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Ken Layton
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1452
From: Olympia, Wash. USA
Registered: Sep 1999


 - posted 05-26-2001 12:28 PM      Profile for Ken Layton   Email Ken Layton   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Paul's right on this one---poor connections (usually the frame ground) for the door lights. The bulbs can be #55, #44, or #47 which are 6 volt bulbs commonly used in pinball machines.

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 05-26-2001 03:15 PM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The "offical" threading and framing lamp is the #55. Sometimes other lamps are subbed. In addition to the #55, I've seen #44, #47 and #51. The #51 is a small round bulb that is handy for the Simplex 35/70 since the shutter blade comes rather close.

You might also want to tighten the lousy screws on the lousy door hinges...they often come loose.

Unfortunately, the value of the door lamps aka theading lamps has diminished since the interior of the Simplex has been painted colors other than white. With a white interior and properly set up threading lamps, one can thread, quite easily, without other illumination!

Steve

------------------
"Old projectionists never die, they just changeover!"

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Aaron Mehocic
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 804
From: New Castle, PA, USA
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 05-27-2001 12:36 AM      Profile for Aaron Mehocic   Email Aaron Mehocic   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Do not use GE #57 bulbs, for they too are dim and just plain suck. The best I've used are Sun Ray #55. We special order our bulbs from a local lighting distributor. In ten years I've replaced probably about a dozen of these things in the doors as well as in the framing window. Bill, what's your secret for long life?

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Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 05-27-2001 02:32 AM      Profile for Paul G. Thompson   Email Paul G. Thompson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Aaron, Get a good set of Chicago Miniature lamps rated at 10,000 hours or so. Then, run them at no more than 6.3 volts AC and they will last many years.

If you guys get the Radio Smack version, you'll be lucky to get one week out of them.

Any certain number on a lamp should get the same brilliance - (a #55 by Radio Smack, a #55 by CM, a #55 by Sun Ray, [yada yada yada] should all light up the same brightness).

Some appear not to, because of the crappy contact they make in the socket, which seems to be quite typical..


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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 05-27-2001 06:09 AM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
If you have poor contact through the door hinges, consider using a flexible ground strap (stranded wire) between the projector frame and the door.

------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Cell: 716-781-4036 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com
Web site: http://www.kodak.com/go/motion

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Bill Enos
Film God

Posts: 2081
From: Richmond, Virginia, USA
Registered: Apr 2000


 - posted 05-31-2001 12:41 AM      Profile for Bill Enos   Email Bill Enos   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
All this stuff on our XLs is 100% original. The door bulbs are #55. The bulbs should be controlled on & off by the switch on the door. When the door is on, the framing bulb is off & vice versa. When the door is open the bulbs are is series and are dim. When the door is closed, they are bright. This is controlled by the microswitch which is in the proj. housing & operated by an adjustable screw at the top of the doors opening edge.

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