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Author Topic: Splicer Repair
Randy Stankey
Film God

Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 04-04-2001 05:03 PM      Profile for Randy Stankey   Email Randy Stankey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Lately I have collected up a bunch of Neumade splicers for repair. I have five of them sitting on my living room floor. I have gotten two of them back in good order by cannibalizing parts off the other three and I'm waiting for parts so I can get the others back together.

I took them apart and cleaned them all up then reassembled what I could. I know that the "base plate" and the "punch pins" are matched sets that can't be mixed up. I also know that they only go back toghether ONE WAY. After a bit of tinkering I have figured out how to align these parts and get them working right.

The last thing that eludes me is how to align the razor blades so they shave off the tape even with the edge of the film without cutting a notch into it.

Anybody have any tricks they want to share?


PS: If you "kids" out there who think you know everything want a good reason NOT to tinker with stuff, just come over to my place and take a look at all the parts I have to throw away because some little PIPSQUEAK like YOU decided to tear a splicer apart and couldn't get it back together! -- If I catch you taking something apart like this, I SWEAR I'm going to THROTTLE you!

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Darryl Spicer
Film God

Posts: 3250
From: Lexington, KY, USA
Registered: Dec 2000


 - posted 04-04-2001 05:56 PM      Profile for Darryl Spicer     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Randy:

Take a screw driver and stick it between the blade holder and the punch assembly. Adjust the blade holder outward until you achieve an even cut. If it goes out too far just tap it in with the handle of the screw driver. this should be all you have to do.

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Randy Stankey
Film God

Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 04-04-2001 07:35 PM      Profile for Randy Stankey   Email Randy Stankey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
So you're saying this is a trial and error thing, huh? That's the way I have been doing it and I'm just about ready to go "Postal" on the next guy who makes the mistake of tearing one of these apart.

I know some people are going to say, "AAAaaagh!!!!! NOOOOooooo!!!", when I say this but on the last one I just adjusted I put Lock-TiteŽ on the screws to keep people from "adjusting" things.

Honestly, it's not a "hard" job. I actually like fixing splicers sometimes. But when people tear them apart as fast as I can put them back together I start loosing my patience.

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John Walsh
Film God

Posts: 2490
From: Connecticut, USA, Earth, Milky Way
Registered: Oct 1999


 - posted 04-04-2001 07:51 PM      Profile for John Walsh   Email John Walsh   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I've never interchanged parts on those splicers before. But when I put them back together, I leave the bottom plate (with the perf holes) loose, then slide the punch down into the holes. Then tighten the 4 screws on the bottom. The plate only goes on one way.

I know this sounds strange, but when you tighten those 4 screws, sometimes it needs to be done in a sequence. I forget now, but either tighten the two outside screws first, then the inside, or visa versa.

There are two screws for each side for the thing that holds the side cutting razors. As far as I know, there's no trick for it; you just have to fiddle with (and test on scrap film) until it's right.

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Darryl Spicer
Film God

Posts: 3250
From: Lexington, KY, USA
Registered: Dec 2000


 - posted 04-05-2001 12:26 AM      Profile for Darryl Spicer     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Yes Randy that is pretty much all you can do. A few months ago I repaired my back up splicer that some one screwed up. It's not perfect but it works well enough for a backup.

The splicer is a projectionist's friend If he miss treats it he has no business hanging around with it.

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Randy Stankey
Film God

Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 04-05-2001 12:59 AM      Profile for Randy Stankey   Email Randy Stankey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Yes, getting the base plate to line up with the punch takes some finesse. What I do is to leave all four screws in the plate loose then insert the punch into the plate by hand. Then I close the top, set the guide "block" on top and then insert the screws. At this point you can "float" all the parts into alignment then tighten the screws one at a time.

This is the "easy" part. It's just getting those blades lined up so they'll cut the tape properly. It takes me about a half-dozen tries to do it but I can get it eventually. I've tried a couple of ways to determine "landmarks" for aligning them but I haven't had much success. I'm still doing it by trial and error.

To be honest, I'm not very proud to admit that I know so much about fixing splicers. It's kinda' like admitting that you have screwed them up in the first place. (Even though I'm only doing it because of some other bone head's screw-ups) Until recently, I didn't really know how to assemble a splicer from scratch because I'd never seen one taken apart.

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Sean McKinnon
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1712
From: Peabody Massachusetts
Registered: Sep 2000


 - posted 04-05-2001 03:10 AM      Profile for Sean McKinnon   Author's Homepage   Email Sean McKinnon   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Randy,

I understand your frustration with "tinkerers" but sometimes if a person knows what they are doing a little tinkering isnt bad. I had automation that wouldnt close my dowsers, so the manager and I "tinkered" with it and got it to work. We added a relay connected to the cue detector and the manual dowser switch. and now it works! Btw, our tech said there was no way to make the automation close the dowser

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John Walsh
Film God

Posts: 2490
From: Connecticut, USA, Earth, Milky Way
Registered: Oct 1999


 - posted 04-05-2001 08:35 AM      Profile for John Walsh   Email John Walsh   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Randy; If you have to do it often enough, would it be worthwhile to make a fixture to position the blades for you?

Sean; It's true that by tinkering a person can fix and learn alot.

But, don't forget that a service tech may have to repair that automation many years from now, long after you have left the company. If there's no schematic diagram showing what was added and how it was done, it could make it harder.

I am guilty of adding parts myself (big time!) But, when I did it, our company only had 20 screens or so, and we had the same service guy. Now that we are approching 200 screens and use several different service people across 6 states, anything other than a "out of the box standard install" would seriously add to maintaince costs.

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Randy Stankey
Film God

Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 04-05-2001 10:24 AM      Profile for Randy Stankey   Email Randy Stankey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I agree that all tinkering isn't bad. I have done a fair share myself.
Even now that I have "permission" to tinker with things I STILL make sure I know what it is I'm fooling around with before I go rushing in. That's what separates the "men" from the "boys" when it comes to being a good projectionist, IMHO.

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 04-05-2001 10:36 AM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
When we modify something we always put a drawing inside the unit for the next guy
documentation is the single most important item

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Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 04-06-2001 08:22 PM      Profile for Paul G. Thompson   Email Paul G. Thompson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Sean, Good Job! Keep it up.

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Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 04-07-2001 05:10 AM      Profile for Paul G. Thompson   Email Paul G. Thompson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
When it comes to splicers, You get what you pay for. Many people do not realize how precision those splicers are.

Yesterday, I made a demonstration of a splice with one of those brand new beaver-tailed $150.00 sledgehammer specials, as compared to a fifteen year old Neumade splicer with dull blades.

There was no comparison. The Neumade splicer beat that new splicer hands down.

Good quality splicers are very expensive. In the long run, they will outlast the El Cheapos probably 15 to 1 or more.

After a year or so, the El Cheapos are ready for the trash can, and the high quality splicers will just keep on going.

Of course, like any precision product, it must be properly taken care of.

A rule of thumb to emphasize Randy's point - don't try to fix something that doesn't need fixing!


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Rick Long
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 759
From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Nov 1999


 - posted 04-08-2001 02:10 AM      Profile for Rick Long   Email Rick Long   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Often (all-too-often, lately), while on a service call, booth personell will hand me a splicer that had been whipped off a platter, or one that someone had attempted to repair (and then tried to reasseble to hide the attempted repair), or just a bag of parts with an apology. I usually just smile, thank them and put it in the trunk of my car.

At the shop, they go into a large box.

On those mornings when it has taken me four times the normal to get to work, due to inclement weather, and I have the choice of driving through the perils of ice-rain, mountainous snow, or holiday traffic out to a service call, or the option of sending a junior technician out on the call, I sit there, a hot coffee on the bench, a cigarette burning yet another notch into the work surface, turn on the radio, roar with laughter at the traffic reports, pull up the box and happily repair these splicers.


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Randy Stankey
Film God

Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 04-08-2001 03:59 AM      Profile for Randy Stankey   Email Randy Stankey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
That's about what I've been doing. Out of the 5 busted up ones that I had lying in pieces on my living room floor, I have two that are worknig well enough to use in daily life. One of those is perfect!
I'm going to box them up and put them in the trunk of my car.

The really good one I'm keeping for myself when I have to make up film or something. When somebody hands me a busted up splicer that has been flung off a platter I'll give them the other one and take the busted one home.

It's just that some days I seem to have more splicers comming IN than going OUT

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Chris Hipp
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1462
From: Mesquite, Tx (east of Dallas)
Registered: Jul 2003


 - posted 08-04-2003 02:21 AM      Profile for Chris Hipp   Email Chris Hipp   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I don't know if anyone is going to read this in a two year old thread but...

It really isn't that difficult to align the puch cutter with the bas plate. Just make sure the base plate is in the correct direction and screw it in. There are two allen screws directly in front of the base plate, simply raise or lower these screws until the punch goes in smoothly.

I worked with 35ss splicers for two years before I realized that, so I wonder how many others don't know.

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