Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Simplex E7 help needed

my profile | my password | search | faq & rules | forum home

»	Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE » Operations » Film Handlers' Forum » Simplex E7 help needed (Page 1)

This topic comprises 2 pages: 1 2

Author

Topic: Simplex E7 help needed

Mike Heenan
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1896
From: Scottsdale, AZ, USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 03-27-2001 10:36 PM

Hi there, Im not on the technical side, so bear with me. The other day my projector just stopped running. Basically, I finished watching a reel, then put another one on, and turned the switch on. I examined everything, the only things that happen are the motor turns, and the lowest sprocket feed roller turns. No gears turn, nothing else. I printed out the manual, but I couldnt really decipher what was wrong. If anyone has had this happen, or has any suggestions how to fix this, either post here, or email me directly, thanks alot!

| IP: Logged

Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 03-27-2001 11:48 PM

If the lowest sprocket on the sound head turns, and the upper sprocket in the sound head does not turn, you probably have a stripped gear in the sound head gear box. Since it is an E-7, you are probably running a SH-1000 or an RCA 1040, 1050, 9030, or a 9050 with it.

If you are using two machines, better check the oil level in the other soundhead before you have TWO machines that do the same thing.

For the rest of you gents that read this: From time to time, check the backlash present in those soundheads. It is easy to do. When you do it, feel for two things:

First, hold the sound head sprocket firmly with your hand. With the other hand, rock the motor back and forth to get a feel how much slop there is. Then do the same with the other sprocket in the soundhead.

If it feels like the upper sprocket slop is greater than the lower sprocket slop, it would be suggested you have a spare bronze gear on hand, because the one in the sound head will probably fail soon. If you have a 9050, remove the lower external gear, and then perform these checks.

Second, as you are rocking the motor back and forth, and it feels like something is climbing while you are holding the sprocket, (like little resistance to a significant resistance to a positive solid engagement), you might as well break out your tools and think about changing a gear as soon as you get out of the "Thinking Room".

(Chances are, that's where you will be headed when you find out your soundhead is almost broken.)

| IP: Logged

Jeff Stricker
Master Film Handler

Posts: 481
From: Calumet, Mi USA
Registered: Nov 1999

posted 03-28-2001 07:36 AM

Hi Paul,

I tried your excellent test on both of my SH 1000's. The top sprocket has SLIGHTLY more play than the lower sprocket. But I mean "Slightly". Actually, I don't think I can dectect any play at all in the lower sprocket. Seems like a few thousands of an inch before you can detect motion in the upper sprocket. I'd say I'm in good shape, your thoughts?

best, Jeff

| IP: Logged

Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 03-28-2001 03:45 PM

Jeff, that sounds good.

| IP: Logged

Mike Heenan
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1896
From: Scottsdale, AZ, USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 03-28-2001 06:30 PM

Hi Paul, thanks for the info. I did your test, it appears that the top sprocket in the soundhead wobbles ever so slightly more than the bottom one. Its really tough to tell the difference, but it seemed to my eyes that the top one wobbles slightly while the bottom one kind of wobbles/floats a little. Hard to explain Im sorry. So something is definetly messed up I guess.

| IP: Logged

Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 03-28-2001 07:47 PM

Hi Mike. Wen you start the motor, does both sprockets in the sound head turn?

| IP: Logged

Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 03-28-2001 07:52 PM

Hey, guys....when you do this backlash test, I might suggest you make sure the motor coupling is good, also. If the coupling is shot, it will give you some very nasty false backlash information.

| IP: Logged

Randy Bowden
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 146
From: Portland, OR, USA
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 03-29-2001 12:25 PM

In order to help I must ask a few more questions regarding your problem here.
First of all are you refering to the lower feed sprocket in the soundhead or projector head. If only the soundhead lower sprocket is turning then you have a soundhead gearbox in need of replacing. If your lower projector feed is turning along with the soundhead then you have a stripped gear in your E-7 head.

| IP: Logged

Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 03-29-2001 04:00 PM

Hi Randy. That is what we are trying to determine. So far, the best I can determine is that he has only one shaft turning, that being the lower holdback in the sound head.

It sounds like the Constant Speed shaft is not turning. Of course, that is the shaft that also dives the projector head. He did the backlash test, but he may have caught some good gear teeth on the partially stripped gear.

That's why I asked the question as to whether the two shafts in the soundhead turn when he starts the motor.

As you said, if they both turn, then he has a gear that may be stripped in the E-7.

It can be difficult to figure out what is really happening when we lack so much information.

I wish they would report back on these forums as to what was actually wrong, as that info can be very valuable to use when another similar problem happens to someone else.

| IP: Logged

Mike Heenan
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1896
From: Scottsdale, AZ, USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 03-29-2001 05:51 PM

Hi guys, the only thing that is working on the entire projector when I turn it on is the motor and the lowest sprocket roller within the soundhead, not the projector head. I hope this clears up the problems. Does this sound like something that'll be hundreds of dollars to fix, or relatively cheap.

| IP: Logged

Randy Bowden
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 146
From: Portland, OR, USA
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 03-29-2001 06:58 PM

Now I only need to know what model soundhead you have. Your gear box is toast! I rebuild these things for a living. Here is how they work so you can understand what is wrong. There is a main Drive shaft inside the gearbox called the pinion shaft, this is directly coupled to the soundhead motor. The pinion shaft runs through the middle of the gearbox. This shaft in turn drives two bronze gears, each bronze gear is keyed to a constant speed shaft. The top gear is what typically goes bad due to the fact that it has no direct contact with any oil. If we do a rebuild exchange you are looking at a 300.00 rebuild at least, maybe more depending of how much damage is done. From the sound of your problem you most likely have a simplex or RCA soundhead, I just need to know a specific model number.

| IP: Logged

Mike Heenan
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1896
From: Scottsdale, AZ, USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 03-29-2001 07:58 PM

Sorry I forgot to include that info in the post, but I have a RCA 1040 soundhead... thanks.

| IP: Logged

Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 03-29-2001 10:09 PM

As Randy said, your gearbox is toast. The gearbox is not that expensive to repair. New gears, (replace them both) gaskets, and bearings should do the trick. I doubt if the pinion shaft is bad.

Probably the most likely cause of the gearbox failure was lack of oil as I have stated in my first post in this tread.

You will have to repair it yourself. The gearbox in the 1040 is not the type you pull out and send in like later vintage RCA sound heads.

| IP: Logged

Harry Robinson
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 155
From: Franklin Tennessee
Registered: Dec 1999

posted 03-30-2001 12:53 AM

What the heck Mike, we can trade out those gears when I'm out there the last week of April. I just went through this. It's not that hard, just a little intimidating if you've never done it. The secret of not having to go through all this again is to figure out that you have to seep the oil slowly into the 1040 gearbox until the level stops going down on the oil tube. Then you have to do that every time you run the thing.

| IP: Logged

Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 03-30-2001 01:05 AM

Hi, Harry.

The best way to get the oil into the gear box is to force feed it. Stick the schnozola of your pump-style oil can into the oil cap, wrap some toilet paper around it, and give it some good powerful sqirts until it is full.

Then, clomp your lips around the oil cap and give it a hefty blow. Then watch the oil level return. If there still is not enough oil, repeat the procedure until there is enough oil.

Now, granted, the oil does not taste very good, and is not good for the human body. I have been doing it for years, and I am not dead yet.

You can always put a clean rag over the opening so your lips do not come in contact with the oil residues on the oil cap.

| IP: Logged

All times are Central (GMT -6:00)

This topic comprises 2 pages: 1 2

Printer-friendly view of this topic

The Film-Tech Forums are designed for various members related to the cinema industry to express their opinions, viewpoints and testimonials on various products, services and events based upon speculation, personal knowledge and factual information through use, therefore all views represented here allow no liability upon the publishers of this web site and the owners of said views assume no liability for any ill will resulting from these postings. The posts made here are for educational as well as entertainment purposes and as such anyone viewing this portion of the website must accept these views as statements of the author of that opinion and agrees to release the authors from any and all liability.