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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Century C and Simplex SH-1000 Qs

   
Author Topic: Century C and Simplex SH-1000 Qs
Paul Mayer
Oh get out of it Melvin, before it pulls you under!

Posts: 3836
From: Albuquerque, NM
Registered: Feb 2000


 - posted 02-26-2001 08:06 PM      Profile for Paul Mayer   Author's Homepage   Email Paul Mayer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
We're waiting on some safety equipment to arrive before continuing work on our ORC lamphouses, so we've moved on to cleaning up our picture and sound heads. Which leads to a few Qs.

1. How much play is tolerable at the input gear of a Century C head? When I turn the machine by hand, there is about one-tooth width of play where I can rock the drive gear back and forth without moving the rest of the gear train. Seems awfully sloppy to me. How much is too much?

2. For cleaning, I wanted to remove the sprockets on our SH-1000. Removed the screws and used a touch of solvent to loosen up the sprockets on their shafts--they spun freely on the shafts, but I couldn't get them to slip off the shafts. The parts drawings I have aren't clear as to how these things should come off. Am I missing something here?

3. The oil-level viewing ports on both of our Century intermittants are so dark that we can't see the oil. How much of a project am I creating by removing the operating-side cover in order to clean those little ports? Or is this something that should be left to an overhauler to do?

BTW both heads appear to be lubed adequately and all of the bearing cups have been oiled. Both heads run smooth and quiet, but not being able to see the intermittant oil level is bothering us.

As always, I thank you all in advance for your comments! Ogenki de!

Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 02-26-2001 08:58 PM      Profile for Paul G. Thompson   Email Paul G. Thompson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Paul:

1. Seems like that is an awful amout of backlash in that Century. I would guess that gear on the mainshaft is badly worn. Unless someone knows a trick I don't know, you are not going to be able to adjust the backlash without screwing up the mesh of the gears that drive the projector holdback or feed sprockets. I would look very closely at the gear for wear.
2. Removal of the sound head sprockets should be easy. They should pull right off the shafts. Make sure the set screw is backed out far enough (sounds like you have) and make sure the film stripper is not fouling the sprocket.
3. As far as removing the cover from the intermittant movement, it is best to remove the movement from the projector before you try that. Have a new gasket handy, but beware - you might have to re-adjust the dwell and cam shaft end play after you do that.

I don't know of a flushing oil that will clean up the oil level sight glasses. Perhaps some of the other gents might be able to give direction on that issue.

Have fun!

Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 02-26-2001 09:47 PM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
Get a flashlight and shine it on the oil sight. Can you see the oil level now? If not, turn the projector on. Did you see the level drop as the motor started? If so, they are overoiled. I find this a lot in theaters where they cannot tell what the level is.

Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 02-26-2001 11:16 PM      Profile for Paul G. Thompson   Email Paul G. Thompson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Paul, I forgot to mention one other thing in regards to your backlash. Make sure the vertical shaft gear is tight. If you rock the machine back and forth, see if there is a relative difference in movement between the vertical shaft gear and the vertical shaft itself.


Randy Stankey
Film God

Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 02-26-2001 11:50 PM      Profile for Randy Stankey   Email Randy Stankey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
If the gear in question is attached to a "swaged" shaft by means of a set screw they you might try taking the gear off the shaft and examining things.

On Centuries, I have found that the screw loses it's "grip" on the flat spot and starts to allow the gear to rotate on the shaft.

What I do in that case is remove the gear, and smooth off any burrs from the shaft. Then I replace the set screw and put the whole thing back together and tighten it well. The point of the exercise is to give the screw something "new" to get a grip on.

Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 02-27-2001 12:05 AM      Profile for Paul G. Thompson   Email Paul G. Thompson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
In addition to what Randy just pointed out, people who replace the gear often fail to rock the shaft as they tighten the screw so it can "center" the set screw on the flat portion of the shaft. The main shaft gear has two set screws, 90 degrees apart. If the screws are tightened as to hit the main shaft flats on an angle, they will work themselves loose as Randy indicated.

Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 02-27-2001 01:38 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
That is way too much play in the main drive gear. since the verticle shaft is pin located there is not any adjustment available. The only gear clearance you can set is the intermittent drive set and the shutter drive set. Personally its wise to replace the drive pair together. If you don't it will just lead to premature wearing of the new fibre gear. Sometimes the steel gear takes a beating and examining it with a magnifying glass will reveal the wear marks in the metal. I prefer to use only LaVezzi gears in Centurys as they seem to last longer and give little trouble. After you clean up the machines lube the gears with Superlube. Its a synthetic lube and does not evaporate at all, makes keeping the machine clean allot easier. It is available from any bearing supplier. Above all do not use wheel bearing grease or Lubriplate, both are pretty awful stuff by comparison!!
As far as the sight glass goes its a dollar item from Wolk if its the one that replaces from the rear. Also replace the main gasket when you break the case apart, and there is supposed to be two small cork gaskets to seal the sight glass. One between the glass and the movement case and the other between the threaded ring and the sight glass. If you ahve the style that is about the size of a quarter than you can replace it but it much be epoxied or siliconed back in place. They are not hard to replace. Finally, while you're in there pop out the old cam pin and install a new one. Its part number PN-31 from Lavezzi or Wolk. It only takes a couple of minuites to do and costs about 6 bucks.


Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 02-27-2001 09:56 PM      Profile for Paul G. Thompson   Email Paul G. Thompson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Mark, you were right about the vertical shaft being pinned. I had my bas on ackwards and was thinking of something else. Sorry...

Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 02-27-2001 10:20 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Paul,
I didn't catch where you said they were adjustable. No worry anyway on this. I have seen Centurys that the pins had been knocked out of though so you could adjust the mesh. Not a good thing to do as its easy to bend the verticle shaft in these heads.
Another thing to watch for is excessive paint on both the intermittent drive gear bracket and on the part of the framing carrage where it clamps to. If there is allot of paint or id the bracket it too tight you also stand a chance of bending the vert. shaft. Be sure that the bracket is a slip fit into the intermittent carrage.
Mark @ GTS

Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 02-27-2001 10:43 PM      Profile for Paul G. Thompson   Email Paul G. Thompson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Mark, the trouble with this industry is that there is just too much to remember with a feeble mind like mine. It is hell to get old. I guess I should take a dose of Ginko Viagra!




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