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Author Topic: Help with Century JJ 35/70's
Greg Pauley
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 173
From: Huntington, WV, USA
Registered: Jun 2000


 - posted 02-19-2001 02:01 PM      Profile for Greg Pauley   Author's Homepage   Email Greg Pauley   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Our company has been running Pro35's exclusively at all our locations for the last 20+ years. I know from reading the forum that alot of you don't have very high regards for the old Pro35, but I guess we are so use to working on the intermittents and outboard bearing that we don't really mind the projector. Anyway, I just purchased a couple of Century JJ2 35/70 (Mag R31-E,Optical JR3-E) to replace a couple of the Pro35's in two large screen houses (40+). Maybe everyone could give me some advice on any of the common problems with the JJ's and anything I should look out for with these heads. We are going to have a tech familar with the heads come in and give us some training, but I know there's alot experience tech's on this forum who have experience with the JJ's. Also, what parts should I consider having on hand for the JJ's. Thanks for your help!


John Walsh
Film God

Posts: 2490
From: Connecticut, USA, Earth, Milky Way
Registered: Oct 1999


 - posted 02-19-2001 02:29 PM      Profile for John Walsh   Email John Walsh   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
There's actually quite a bit of JJ info on this site, but you will have to use the 'search' feature to find them all.

What lamps will you be using them with; what kind of optical sound system (reverse scan; LED, etc.) running reels or platters; about how old are they; etc... Tell us these details so we can tailor our answers to your paticular installation...

Greg Pauley
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 173
From: Huntington, WV, USA
Registered: Jun 2000


 - posted 02-19-2001 02:42 PM      Profile for Greg Pauley   Author's Homepage   Email Greg Pauley   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
John:
These are existing houses with 4000 wt. Lamps, Kelmar Led's (going to replace the mounts to fit century) and we are using strong platters. I'am told the heads are around 10-12 years old. Not really looking to make the houses 70mm ready at this time, just looking for a more stable picture with the century. I would like to convert to 70mm maybe in the future, if we could ever get a print. I forgot to mention that they came with a 70mm DTS reader. Thanks


John Walsh
Film God

Posts: 2490
From: Connecticut, USA, Earth, Milky Way
Registered: Oct 1999


 - posted 02-19-2001 06:30 PM      Profile for John Walsh   Email John Walsh   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Before you install them, have someone put the "Cinefocus" option in. This is really just drilling a 1" - 1.25" hole in the casting, next to the lens mount, (if they are single-lens models.) If you don't want to pay for this option now, they can just put in a plug after drilling. This won't apply to heads modified for lens turrets.

Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 02-19-2001 06:52 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Actually there is a bit more to Cinefocus than what you described. I am a big fan of it. There are two special plates to go inside the curved runers and other gaskets that need to be installed in the lens mount / gate opener assy. You also need to install a seal down the length of the cut in the 4" adaptor. Cinefocus works great with really high powered lamps say 4kw and over. I ahve an adaption of Cinefocus on mt AA-2 that some ingenious technician put together.
The JJ's will definately give you a more stable 35mm pix. Watch out for the differences between the Kelmar JJ led stuff and the standard 35mm stuff when you go to replace it.
Mark @ GTS


John Walsh
Film God

Posts: 2490
From: Connecticut, USA, Earth, Milky Way
Registered: Oct 1999


 - posted 02-20-2001 09:37 AM      Profile for John Walsh   Email John Walsh   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Yes... I just meant to do the messy work (drilling the hole) before installing the heads.

If the JJ's won't be used for 70mm, (at least in the near future) some people like to remove the shaft coupling that drives the sprocket in the 70mm mag head. Store the coupling in the mag head, taped down. Actually, since the mag head is really only needed for, well, mag, you might just take it off. Mount the 70mm DTS head there instead, if you can figure a way to easily bypass it for 35mm. Normally, I might leave it, but who will run mag anymore and with all these penthouses and readers, short people will have to reach up to thread.

If you also have the magazines, remove the magazine itself, but keep the reel arms, if you can (things sometimes get messy trying to mount DTS readers and reel arms.) You never know when you might need to run reels.

Buy one extra 70mm pad roller to replace the one above the gate (when running 70mm.)

In the back of the intermittent, there's a hole on the casting to fill it with oil (there's one in the front, too, but no one seems to use it.) They make a felt plug to insert in the hole, to keep oil from comming out. I notice many people loose the plug, throw it away, etc. because they think it's not needed, but I suggest you use it. Alot of oil does splash out while running.

Is it water-cooled? Maybe now is a good time to flush it out with an anti-calicum chemical.

Keep a lot of grease on the fiber gear at the bottom of the drive shaft. That's where the head is powered from, so there's a lot of pressure there that forces the grease out.

Greg Pauley
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 173
From: Huntington, WV, USA
Registered: Jun 2000


 - posted 02-20-2001 09:53 AM      Profile for Greg Pauley   Author's Homepage   Email Greg Pauley   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thanks John & Mark:
What about parts? For the Pro35 you need to keep a spare intermittent, bearing for the outboard bearing and splines for the coupler near by. Are there parts that need to be replaced often in the JJ's?

Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 02-20-2001 12:47 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I'd keep an extra main drive gear pair around. Like john says there is allot of friction generated down there, especially if the projector is a direct drive type with a sync motor. This particuluar fibre gear has small teeth and is small in diameter as compared to a standard drive gear. Always replace these gears in pairs! The metal gear gets allot of wear as well and if you re-use the old one it will actually wear out the new fibre gear faster. Also use Super Lube on the gears. Never use Lubriplate or bearing grease as they dry up too fast. Super Lube is synthetic and does not harden or evaporate even at extreme temperatures.
Also if you are going to run daily on the 35/70mm intermittent sprocket keep an extra one of those around. You can also install a VKF 35mm sprocket and accociated spacers and new shoes on the intermittent speocket shoe. The 35mm VKF sprocket will way outlast the alumnium 35/70 sprocket.
Mark

John Walsh
Film God

Posts: 2490
From: Connecticut, USA, Earth, Milky Way
Registered: Oct 1999


 - posted 02-20-2001 02:40 PM      Profile for John Walsh   Email John Walsh   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The JJ's I used were pretty good; I can't think of any parts that would always break.

Mark is right about the intermittent sprocket; I forgot about that. I used to put regular 35mm sprockets back in after running 70mm. The intermittent sprocket pad shoes are an assembly that can be pulled out to clean, or change to 70mm. Once where I worked, an operator removed the 35mm assembly to clean (with a 35/70mm sprocket installed), but did not push it all the way back in when done. He locked it, but one shoe was really sitting directly on top of the sprocket teeth. He started the machine, and all the teeth on one side went goodbye. In 1983, that was a $125 part. If a sprockets gonna get wiped out, might as well be a 35mm only.

Does your machine have the heat filter holder? Did anyone ever find a source for these? I had problems getting them from Century, even back then. I ordered them three times, and always got square ones, but I had round-shaped holders. They were going through bad times, then. Everytime I called, someone else had quit.

I must admit, I'm really not up-to-date on JJ's. The ones I used for many years were really JJ-2's.

Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 02-20-2001 07:33 PM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Personally I perferr the Pro35/70 to the JJ
I think it as a steadier image. Less focus problems with high tempertures



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