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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Close encounters of the Christie kind (Page 1)

 
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Author Topic: Close encounters of the Christie kind
Michael Barry
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 584
From: Sydney, NSW, Australia
Registered: Nov 1999


 - posted 12-13-2000 09:00 AM      Profile for Michael Barry   Email Michael Barry   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
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Jeffry L. Johnson
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 809
From: Cleveland, Ohio, USA
Registered: Apr 2000


 - posted 12-13-2000 11:07 AM      Profile for Jeffry L. Johnson   Author's Homepage   Email Jeffry L. Johnson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Remember that your lower loop defines your picture/analog sound synchronization point in the auditorium. Placing the middle of the "Sound start" frame at the analog sound reader and the "Picture start" frame in the projector aperture will place picture/sound synch at about 50 feet away from the screen.

You can adjust your lower loop size for different size auditoriums.

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 12-13-2000 11:37 AM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Sound takes one frame (1/24 second) to travel about 50 feet. Standard SMPTE 40 specifies a 21 frame displacement between picture and analog sound on a release print. For a home screening room or drive-in where you sit only a few feet from the speaker(s), 21 frames would be the correct offset in threading. But if most of your audience is sitting 50 feet from the screen speakers, you want 20 frames between picture aperture and analog sound reader. In a very large theatre, a 19-frame offset would produce sync at 100 feet from the screen speakers.

AFAIK, most digital sound systems use a "buffer", so the sync is adjustable within a range of offsets between the reader and projector aperture. The sound should be adjusted to be in sync for the center of the seating area in the theatre.

------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com


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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 12-13-2000 12:13 PM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
Be real careful about enlarging that lower loop on a Christie. If the Ultramittent is not outfitted with the guard rails, it will cause scratching of the film. If it is outfitted with the guard rails, the slapping will cause excess shedding. I cannot imagine anyone recommending a larger loop on this particular machine. In most auditoriums as has been mentioned above, this will also throw off the analog synchronization. Have the people at this theater actually noticed a reduction in shedding? I highly doubt it. You can cut down on print shedding far more on a Christie by merely making sure the shoe and pad rollers are properly aligned and not changing the gate bands until they fall apart (which should not happen unless someone has been messing around in there with a pair of pliers or something).

My two cents: bad idea.


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Randy Stankey
Film God

Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 12-13-2000 01:33 PM      Profile for Randy Stankey   Email Randy Stankey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
So, Michael; Now that you've seen your first "Purple Cow" what do you think?

When I saw my first one I came away thinking, "It's just about all that people say it is.."
Shaky picture, shedding film, self-destructing dowsers... the works.

Thing is, I don't think it's a horrible design. It just seems that somewhere in the "implementation" of the thing that stuff got messed up. If it was made right in the first place I think it could actually be a good projector.

Still, if I was spending my OWN money, I wouldn't buy THAT cow.

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Michael Barry
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 584
From: Sydney, NSW, Australia
Registered: Nov 1999


 - posted 12-14-2000 12:31 AM      Profile for Michael Barry   Email Michael Barry   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 12-14-2000 04:22 AM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
In the "manuals" section you can download the P35GP "parts price list" to get a rough estimate of what the parts cost as well as to get part numbers.

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 12-14-2000 04:37 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Just don't ask Christie to drop ship any parts for you. That jacks the price up about 20 points!
Mark

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Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 12-14-2000 06:49 PM      Profile for Paul G. Thompson   Email Paul G. Thompson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Just do what the manual recommends. That's why there are manuals!

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Michael Barry
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 584
From: Sydney, NSW, Australia
Registered: Nov 1999


 - posted 12-14-2000 07:29 PM      Profile for Michael Barry   Email Michael Barry   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
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Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 12-14-2000 10:43 PM      Profile for Paul G. Thompson   Email Paul G. Thompson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Certainly, by all means, take Brad's advice. I presumed that the manual would caution the operators on big lower (and upper) loops anyway. If the supposedly lower loop size recommended by the manual is actually to big, a correction should be made in the manual. In addition to Brad's advice, most operators would discover what Brad was talking about by simply rolling the machine through by hand and inspecting the loops as they change size, like most professional operators are supposed to do. At maximum size immediately after the pull-down, what stationary part can that loop come in contact with? Hopefully, it will not be able to come in contact with anything below the bottom of the intermittant sprocket. With minimum loop size at the start of the pull-down, does the loop look like it
is "straining" and pulling the shoe away from the intermittant sprocket? Another concern is what happens if there is a mis-frame? Will the loop size compensate for it when the machine is re-framed? Also, I wish I had a nickle for every time I yelled at my operators for not returning the framing knob back to its center position after the show when a mis-frame happened for one reason or the other. Especially an out- of-frame splice that they are too lazy to repair. I have walked in many booths when I was servicing as a field engineer, and 9 times out of ten, I would find the framing knob jammed up against the stop. I have seen lot of damaged film because operators won't look any further than the end of their nose!!



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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 12-15-2000 04:19 AM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
My favorite feature of the Christie projector is the incredibly easy task of simply locking the framing control down. Never again will there be visible negative splices on scope films or slightly out of center flat films. If the projectionists cannot thread in frame in the first place, what are they doing in the booth?

All it takes is an allen wrench!

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 12-15-2000 08:36 AM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Has anyone ever tried covering the curved runner with velvet on a P-35? I would think this would eliminate most shedding altogether.
Mark

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 12-15-2000 08:41 AM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
Yes, I tried it about 18 months ago to see if it would steady the picture and found no discernable difference. In terms of shedding, that's not a problem if FilmGuard is used. I did find that replacing the velvet properly was a real pain and it was required two to three times a week, something that is far to frequent for a final result that made no difference in registration.

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Paul Konen
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 981
From: Frisco, TX. (North of Dallas)
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 12-15-2000 09:17 AM      Profile for Paul Konen   Email Paul Konen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I don't see why you should be rebuilding a projector every month. I have 24 to take care of and just replace parts that start to go out.

Now this has been mainly confined to shutter assy (6), jack shaft(3) and two continuous roller assy and that's about it out of about 18 months of use. Just make sure that those belts aren't so tight to cause undue stress on the shutter assy or jack shaft.

Paul.


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