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This topic comprises 3 pages: 1 2 3
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Author
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Topic: oil change
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Randy Stankey
Film God
Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 11-23-2000 03:32 PM
What model? I'm assuming you have either a PR-2000 (AKA: "Millennium") or a PR-1050. The only real differences are where the oil fillers are and stuff like that. Mostly, they are identical inside where it counts.There's not much to it, really. All you have to do is drain out the old and refill it with new. If you have been keeping up with your other maintainence that's about it. If you haven't then I suggest you give the projector a good going-over.... Otherwise all you should have to do is give it an extra-good cleaneing, check the belts and replace them if you have to. Give it a "function check" and you're done. If you want to you can take the back off and clean out the oil sump and strainer by hand. If you've been keeping up on maintanence that's not too critical. Funny... as easy as it is to do this stuff, it's the least kept up part of the projector in a lot of booths. Hell, I'm lucky to even find oil in HALF the projectors I look at!
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John Walsh
Film God
Posts: 2490
From: Connecticut, USA, Earth, Milky Way
Registered: Oct 1999
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posted 11-23-2000 11:02 PM
Ooooh... You're gonna hear about that, Ken! Just because it *came* from the ground, doesn't mean it's supposed to go *back* ......  My suggestion is to simply save it up in a 4-5 gallon container. (That's a lotta Simplex oil changes. I don't know how many, but a guess would be about 40.) When the container gets full, then take it to a local gas station, etc. and have them dispose of it properly. In my town, the local fire dept. will set up a collection once a month where you can drop it off to them. Maybe there's something like that in your town. Mark the container, so no one thinks it's "good" oil, and uses it again. A guy I know used to dump his old car oil into his oil tank for the furnace. He would pour in a quart, wait a few days, pour in another, etc. He said that it would clog the nozzle if 5 quarts tried to go through at once, but with only a quart every few days, it was OK.
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Bruce McGee
Phenomenal Film Handler
Posts: 1776
From: Asheville, NC USA... Nowhere in Particular.
Registered: Aug 1999
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posted 11-24-2000 07:43 AM
As someone who worked on oil furnaces for many years, I bet the guy that put small amounts of motor oil in the furnace had a nice smoky flame when the furnace ran, and had to have the heat exchanger wire-brushed out more often than someone that only used #2 oil.As someone who changes the oil on his vehicles every 2-3000 miles, I dont understand why the projector oil cant be changed with some regularity. I'm a stickler for correct oil levels in everything that I own. (The Holmes uses a grease pack, and is checked far more often than the manual suggests) My big RCA TP-66 Telecine projector is the only one that I own that needs an oil change now and then. The oil is absolutely level with the mark on the sight-glass before I begin using it. I learned this after the TV station bought a new "66" in 1980, their first, and never checked the oil levels after the tech set it up at the delivery time. They had to replace the intermittent suddenly less than 6 months after the purchase, and I remember the unit costing around 12,000 bucks! My "66" pair are from the late '60's, had regular maintenance, and are still running perfectly after many thousand hours of running time. My uncle Bill Broome, got me started doing proper maintenance on my mechanical toys. Oil in the cars is never allowed to get very dark before I change it. Bill is now in his 90's and his 1960's truck purrs with over 250,000 miles on the original engine. Please remember my Uncle Bill. He is battling cancer now. How often do Century and Simplex (for example) recommend the oil changes? This should be logged the way xenon lamp changes are done.
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Michael Cunningham
Expert Film Handler
Posts: 186
From: Anchorage, AK
Registered: Nov 1999
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posted 11-24-2000 04:07 PM
Yes, every six months is recommended on a Simplex and yeah, just drain the oil out through that little stem on the front, beneath the lenses, until it stops coming out (it will drip for quite some time). Then, you're supposed to take the gear cover off, the back cover of the projector with the window in it. Wipe out all the excess oil and grit from all the gearing and compartment walls, don't forget to also clean the cover / window and the rubber gasket seal and the frame of the projector where the seal will contact it. Be sure not to use something that's going to leave little pieces of itself in the gearing like paper towels or something. A good grease rag that doesn't shed fibers is a good choice. Now, you have to find the oil filter and remove and clean it. It's located in slightly different places depending on the model, check your manual. On my projectors, it's in the lower, left-hand corner. There's a silver, rectangular block thingy which is the oil pump. Coming out of the left side of this is some copper tubing attached to the silver block with a nut. The tubing bends downward into the projector sump and has a small metal basket thing attached to its end. This is the filter and is removed by loosening the nut and twisting the tubing upward and out of the machine. Then just run under hot water and THOROUGHLY DRY. This is important since oil and water don't mix. Now replace the filter and cover and pour fresh oil in the fill spout up top, it's easier if you use a funnel set aside for this purpose. Fill till your sightglass shows only a small bubble at the top, or to the metal ring if you have the front mounted "tube type" sight glass. Wait ten minutes for the oil to settle and make any final adjustments to oil level. Then start up your motor and check to be sure that the oil is moving around well, splashing all over the window and such.-Mike
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Bruce McGee
Phenomenal Film Handler
Posts: 1776
From: Asheville, NC USA... Nowhere in Particular.
Registered: Aug 1999
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posted 11-25-2000 10:01 AM
Jeff:Since this is not a 16mm site, I wont drone on too long about "candy gauge"..  The TP-66's that we got in 1980 were in fact brand new. I remember them because I signed the waybill from RCA in Deptford, NJ. Maybe they were new old stock...figures if this is true, we were a struggling UHF indie... We replaced a pair of TP-6's that were well-used when we got them in 1976. We referred to them as the "chompers" We damaged more film during the 4 years of use than I care to remember. After the replacement, I informed the film distributors that we had new equipment. Suddenly, we started getting something that until then was unheard of....new prints  !! As for the lens issue, a pair of Bell & Howell 1.5" lenses are good, except that with the 5 bladed shutters, the image is a bid dim. I got this pair for the cost of moving them out of the building and loading them on my ugly truck ($0.) There will soon be another one in my garage. I'm thankful for a cement floor!
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Bruce McGee
Phenomenal Film Handler
Posts: 1776
From: Asheville, NC USA... Nowhere in Particular.
Registered: Aug 1999
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posted 11-27-2000 08:06 AM
Jeff: Thanks for the link. Actually, the TP that I am getting this weekend is of the same vintage as the one in your link--right down to the old RCA badge. At least I dont have to drive to Dallas to get it! I will be doing major maintenance on it when I get it home. I got a manual from a film-tech reader along with some old GWTW footage a few months back. If it interests anybody, I am restoring an old multiplexer so that I can run 2 TP's and a slide projector on the one camera. The camera is just a Vidicon, but works well enough for me to transfer some home movies for friends...at sound speed... Pic does not smear!
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