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This topic comprises 2 pages: 1  2 
 
Author Topic: Shutters & Parts
Dave Bird
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 777
From: Perth, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Jun 2000


 - posted 09-29-2000 07:29 AM      Profile for Dave Bird   Author's Homepage   Email Dave Bird   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
What is the difference between a 3-bladed shutter and the standard 2? Also, where can I source some new parts for my Simplex XL's (either here in Ontario or wherever). Thank you.

Dave Bird

Dear lord, somebody help, the Vegemite's on FIRE!

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Barry Floyd
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1079
From: Lebanon, Tennessee, USA
Registered: Mar 2000


 - posted 09-29-2000 07:42 AM      Profile for Barry Floyd   Author's Homepage   Email Barry Floyd   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Dave,
My projectors are as old as yours and I just ordered and recieved parts for my XL this week. I downloaded the Parts Manual from Film-Tech, found my part numbers, and ordered them from CPI in Nashville.
The guys at CPI (Cinema Products International) were very helpful and very quick with getting me the parts.

Speaking of Shutters & Parts....

The "dowser" or "thingy" that's connected to the changeover cable has been disconnected and just kind of "flops around". The "fire shutter" doesn't reset either. My question is, since I'll be running this XL with a platter... do I still need these parts inside the machine?
Somebody shed some light on this for me?

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John Walsh
Film God

Posts: 2490
From: Connecticut, USA, Earth, Milky Way
Registered: Oct 1999


 - posted 09-29-2000 10:08 AM      Profile for John Walsh   Email John Walsh   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
A 3-bladed shutter is mostly used when transfering TV images to video. The fields/frames are different between TV and film, and a 3-bladed shutter compensates for this. They are also used insome review rooms to get a picture with less flicker.

I would keep the changeover shutter, usually referred to as the "zipper" after a company that manufactures them. It looks nicer to not see the countdown, writing and other stuff on the film.I would also keep the safety shutter. It usually does not break, and helps prevent the film from burning if the projector slows down. For example, if the projector belt breaks, or the fuse on just the motor opens, the automation will not "know" and not shut off the lamp.

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 09-29-2000 10:32 AM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I agree with John that it's a good idea to keep the centrifical "fire shutter", since it will protect the film from burning if the projector slows or stops. Many modern projectors leave these out of their designs, since they were only mandated for nitrate film. But saving any print from a burned frame is worthwhile.

AFAIK, projectors intended for telecine (film-to-video) use a FIVE blade shutter, along with a special fast pulldown, to achieve the 3:2 pulldown frame rate conversion from 24 fps film to 30 fps video without flicker.

3-blade shutters are widely used in screening rooms, to almost completely eliminate any perception of shutter flicker (3 x 24 = 72 interruptions per second, so flicker is much less visible). A 3-blade shutter can also be used in theatre applications to minimize flicker, as long as you have enough light to overcome the lower shutter efficiency. Using a 3-blade shutter to minimize flicker, I've projected prints at light levels up to 60 footlamberts on a smaller screen, and they look stunning. The current screen luminance standard of 16 footlamberts specified by SMPTE 196M (with an allowed range of 12-22 fL for theatres) was primarily driven by the need to reduce flicker perception with a 2-blade shutter having only 48 interruptions per second.

For a home theatre with a small screen, and excess light, using a 3-blade shutter would offer the advantage of almost no flicker, and the ability to increase the light level well above 16 footlamberts, to see that "brighter is better" usually produces stunning images.

Of course, when showing silent films at 16 fps, a three-blade shutter must be used, since flicker with a two-blade shutter would be very annoying.

------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com


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Dave Bird
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 777
From: Perth, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Jun 2000


 - posted 09-29-2000 11:15 AM      Profile for Dave Bird   Author's Homepage   Email Dave Bird   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I have heard the term "drive-in shutter". Which setup (or combination of) is this?

Also, is the "hub" of the conical shutter on the XL part of or seperate from the blade itself? (One of mine is cracked, will I replace the whole blade or just a hub piece? I can't tell from the parts diagram.)
Thank you for the replies.

------------------
Dave Bird

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Dave Bird
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 777
From: Perth, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Jun 2000


 - posted 09-29-2000 11:23 AM      Profile for Dave Bird   Author's Homepage   Email Dave Bird   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Barry, I had that "fire dowser" problem as well, until I had realized that it had simply wedged with another part during transit. Now it's fine. Of course, I have the advantage of no lamp attached, so I can get at this stuff easily. (The disadvantage of not being able to light 'em!)

I don't want to say rust, but the pitting in that area of the projector made it a little difficult to disassemble the c/o zipper dowser from the cable. Before I re-attach them, what can I use to protect these little allen screws from sticking next time. Or is it such a high heat area (and so rare that you'd need to get the cable out) that I should forget it? What will clean the (very slight) pitting in this area? Thank you.

------------------
Dave Bird

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 09-29-2000 11:31 AM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
A "drive-in shutter" may be one of two things.

A conventional 4:1 "Geneva" intermittent using a maltese cross movement requires a nominal shutter blade of 90-degrees to block the light during the film pulldown. (See Tim Reed's excellent animated video of how an intermittent works in the "Videos" section of Film-Tech). Otherwise, light going through the film while it is moving will cause "travel ghost" on the screen. With the low light levels typical in a drive-in, a shutter blade under 90 degrees might be used to gain slightly more efficiency at the expense of a bit of travel ghost.

Special high speed "drive-in" intermittents used an extra mechanical linkage to decrease the pulldown time. A 5:1 high speed intermittent could advance the frame in only about 72-degrees (360/5 = 72). So the shutter blades used with these intermittents could be as small as about 72 degrees, putting even more light on the screen. The disadvantage of the high speed intermittents was that the extra linkage made them noisier and more problematic. The higher film accelerations also put more stress on the film perforations, which was more of an issue on triacetate prints than today's tough polyester prints.

------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com


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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 09-29-2000 12:29 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The 3 blade shutter should be available from Strong. Many studio and home screening rooms use them.
For Telecine a 5 blade shutter is needed as well as a synchronus motor driven sound head.

I ahve installed high speed movements in Drive inns recently and found far more image definition and apparent steadiness with them.
Mark

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 09-29-2000 12:45 PM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
I'm probably wrong on this, as I've never bothered to research it, but isn't/wasn't Simplex the only high speed intermittent around? Are they still being made?

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 09-29-2000 12:57 PM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
AFAIK, "drive-in" intermittents are only available on the used equipment market. Don't know if Simplex was the only type, and whether having the extra linkage was the only design.

Mark: When you saw the improved definition and steadiness, could it be that you were using it with 90-degree shutter blades? If the film was pulled into position within 72 degrees, it would have more time to stabilize in the gate before the shutter opened.

------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 09-29-2000 01:37 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Actually Phillips made high speed intermittants for the FP-20 series of projectors. The Century CS-55 movements are also High Speed.
Mark

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 09-29-2000 02:16 PM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Mark:

Did the Century CS-55 movements get adapted for use in the Century JJ 35/70? Over on r.a.m.t, they are looking for evidence that 55 mm prints of "Carousel" and "The King and I" were actually used in theatres. Where were the projectors installed? Were they 6-perf or 8-perf pulldown? In any case, with a high speed movement, the stress on the perfs had to be pretty high, especially with triacetate prints.

------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com


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Rory Burke
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 181
From: Burbank, CA, USA
Registered: Jun 2000


 - posted 09-29-2000 02:37 PM      Profile for Rory Burke   Email Rory Burke   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
There is a theater in southern California in the Inland Empire with a three bladed shutter presentation. We found that we lost more light and had to beef up the lamp house from a 3k to a 4.5k bulb to compensate but as it looks on the screen now it is just.....LIQUID!.....The Star Wars remastered releases looked spectacular on that screen.
It is the CinemaStar Perris Plaza 10 all THX complex in the city of Perris Calif about 80 miles east of L.A.

Rory


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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 09-29-2000 03:01 PM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Rory:

I'm not surprised at the quality you are getting with a 3-blade shutter. Certainly gets rid of flicker, and allows a high level of illumination. As you note, the lower efficiency of a 3-blade shutter needs a larger lamp for a given image size.

What size and type of screen are you lighting with that 4500 watt lamp? What is the screen luminance? With a curved gain screen and decent optics, I would guess a screen up to about 20 x 48 feet would be possible, even with a 3-blade shutter.

------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com

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Larry Shaw
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 238
From: Boston, MA, USA
Registered: Mar 2000


 - posted 09-29-2000 03:11 PM      Profile for Larry Shaw   Author's Homepage   Email Larry Shaw   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
John, I believe the EE predates the JJ. I also don't recall the movement being accelerated, I'll check someday. It does have double dissolving shutters, but made from thick, heavy metal. Stop by and have a look if you're in the area.

-Larry

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