I am having some problems with our Maxi 11X/DC automation by Xetron. The film starts fine, runs fine, and stops fine if the stop button is pressed manually.

However, there is a problem if the failsafe drops. On this unit, the failsafe is connected to the terminals for a remote stop switch. Whenever the failsafe drops, the motor shuts off, the lights brighten, and the stop sequence runs through fine. Then, at the end of the stop sequence, the cam timer doesn't stop rotating; it keeps turning, progessing into the "show start" sequence. This causes the lights to dim and brighten and the dowser to open and close every 30 seconds or so. It's becoming quite annoying, as it would seem that the cam timer would stop at the end of the sequence rather than continuing to cycle, even if the "stop" button is still depressed.

I'm guessing that there is some problem with the cam settings, but am not sure how to reset these to the original settings. Any help or insight is appreciated.

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Have any circuit or wiring suggestions? I was thinking about creating a small device using some sort of timer to produce a contact closure of about one second or so.

A quick look at the schematic does seem to imply that, electrically, the "remote stop" and "failsafe" are the same. Both get grounded to operate.

I've worked with many Maxi's (although not a DC type) and they don't usually cycle through the "intermission" phase right to the "run" phase, even with the "stop" or failsafe continually grounded.

As far as the wiring of the failsafe, it is conected as you describe. What's more, with the failsafe disconnected, holding the stop button produces the same effect.

I looked at teh schematic and found the diagram for the cam settings, but I've never worked with cam timers much, and am not exactly sure what the easiest (and best) way to set the cams is. Do I need to count each little tooth on the timers to make them match perfectly to the diagram?

Before you start to adjust the cams, I'd suggest getting a meter or light and hooking it to the cam microswitches so you know when they are on. Also, remove the fuse/shut off the breaker for the curtian. You don't want it going up and down, or even worse; having the "down" circuit engerized when the curtian is going up, so at the end, it immediately reverses and ripps the motor out of the floor (I've seen it done!) Same thing with motorized dimmers, xenon lamp, projector motor and zipper. You will need to cycle the timer several times, and you don't need to put all that wear and tear on the equipment.

Usually, the the two cams next to the motor are the ones that control the automation itself. Those are the ones you should check. The first one is usually not adjustable, and is hooked to 110VAC, so be careful. The second one is adjustable. The teeth on the cam are not at any set time (ie: moving the cam three "clicks" does not mean 3 seconds.) It's OK to use for a rough setting, but you must time with a watch to insure it's correct.

The cams stop every 180 degrees. 0 to 180 is "show" mode (stopping at 180 while the show is going), and 180 to 0 is intermission mode.

The adjustable cams have two halfs, each adjustable. I forget which is which (too many years and beers) but one side adjusts how many seconds (after the cam starts to turn) that the microswitch gets thrown. The other adjusts how long the microswitch stays thrown. Example: If you wanted the zipper to open 8 seconds after the "start" button is pressed, and to be plused open for 2 seconds, -one cam half would be set to 8 seconds, and the other set to 10 seconds.

The others are for: dim lights=cam#3 bright=cam#4; open zipper=cam#5; close zipper= cam#6; curtian open=cam#8. These can be adjusted without affecting the basic operation of the automation. Those cams would actually need to be adjusted depending on what kind of dimmers you have (motorized or electronic) when and how long (after "start" you want the curtian to open, whether you have a zipper that only requires a "pulse" to open (almost every zipper on the planet) or you have a zipper that needs to be elecrtically "held" on (Cinemecannica V5's and V9's and some V8's.) These won't affect the automation, and might be set "special" so I wouldn't change them.

I didn't go over the schematic too close, but the alarm cam#7 may also affect the automation operation.

A last suggestion that probably doesn't apply, but... Check the wiring, terminals , etc. to see if someone may have modified the unit, especially if it was used when you got it. Usually you can see a added wire(s), a crimp terminal that dosen't match the others, etc. If so, watch out! Putting the cams back to factory settings may be "bad."

Hope that helps a little....