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Author Topic: diameters of large reels
Harry Robinson
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 155
From: Franklin Tennessee
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 08-25-2000 11:39 AM      Profile for Harry Robinson   Email Harry Robinson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I tried searching around the website, and I know I've seen these figures before, but I've forgotten them.
I have some large reels. The ones that came with my 3D magazines are 23" in diameter.
A local independent sold me some 26" reels with a larger hole in the middle (I gather this to be common from what I've read).
What have I got? I don't yet have a rewind system, so I haven't had the chance to run film onto these things yet.
I should add that 2 of the reels have the "slipping" ability, that makes it easier for the film to start up without breaking. These, no doubt, are take-up reels.
Can one of you guys help me clarify this? Incidently, the 26" reels don't fit in the magazines.

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Greg Mueller
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1687
From: Port Gamble, WA
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 08-25-2000 12:18 PM      Profile for Greg Mueller   Author's Homepage   Email Greg Mueller   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Reels come in sizes up to 48" (that I've heard of). The large reels have a 1/2" spindle hole while the regular "house reels" have 5/16" spindle holes. Your 26" reels will probably hold 1/2 a feature. 32"-36" will hold a full feature. The slipping ability of the edges (sounds like Goldbergs to me) are so that when the projector starts up, it doesn't have to overcome the inertia of getting those sides revolving along with all that film, all at once. The sides can "catch up" latter. For collectors, reels make sense as they provides a place to store the film when not in use. A feature can be brought out run, and put away quickly, without having to make up and break down the print. Commercial theaters run one feature for a period of time so they can leave it on the platter, and only make it up and break it up once. 36" reels are a fairly common size and I use them for my home theater. To get your 26" reels to work, just take the cans off your take up and feed arms. You might have to put little blocks in between the arms and the projector so the reels will clear. You also will start running into clutch adjustment problems on your take up arm with the bigger reels.

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Greg Mueller
Amateur Astronomer, Machinist, Filmnut

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Bruce McGee
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1776
From: Asheville, NC USA... Nowhere in Particular.
Registered: Aug 1999


 - posted 08-25-2000 01:06 PM      Profile for Bruce McGee   Email Bruce McGee   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I am aquiring some 24" Goldberg floating hub reels with 5/16" centers. To use them on the Holmes, I will have to come up with some type of fire roller replacement because the roller is part of the feed and take-up magazine assemblies and will only do the 2000' thing.

Another thought is running times. The single Holmes gets rather hot running reels continuously. When used for changeovers, it has a 20 minute break between run times. I was told that my 24" reels are 5000'-ers by David Koegel, so if this is wrong, blame him.

So I could run 60 minutes before stopping the thing.

Is there something to be said for being on too much? The motor gets warm, but not too hot to touch, but I havent run it non-stop for an hour with the lamp blazing, though.

If you've seen a Holmes, you know that there is just a square hole in the top and bottom of the machine and the fire rollers on the mags are inserted there.

I also doubt that there is a theater in the USA using Holmes. If there is one, please admit it and tell me.

Thanks


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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 08-25-2000 02:28 PM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
the 23" reels are called 3d reels and held between 4000' and 5000' of cta film they will hold more estar film as it is thinner
The floating centre is as said to stop snatching on start up
The 1/2 spindle started out as a european idea and was adopted for the 70mm reel standard and spilled over to 35mm use
In fact there is a specification for a reel with adapters on the side to centre it on a 70mm spindle

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Ken Layton
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1452
From: Olympia, Wash. USA
Registered: Sep 1999


 - posted 08-25-2000 02:45 PM      Profile for Ken Layton   Email Ken Layton   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Large reels are available with either 1/2" or 5/16" shaft holes (you have to specify what size you need).

Bruce: try some of the Kelmar film cleaner guide roller assemblies to replace your Holmes rollers.

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Greg Mueller
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1687
From: Port Gamble, WA
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 08-25-2000 03:20 PM      Profile for Greg Mueller   Author's Homepage   Email Greg Mueller   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
When I had a Super Simplex, I squeeked it once from not enough oil in the bearings. Actually, there were no bearings, just holes in the castings. In your Holmes do you have to manually oil? I wound up rigging up a oil drip method using A piece of brass pipe (where you dumped the oil into) that had little plastic hoses that went to each of the oiling tubes. Pipe cleaners in each tube slowed the oil down to a drip, which was just enough. It looked like an octopus. All I had to do was take the oil collector (baby food jar) off the bottom of the motiograph soundhead and dump the "recycled" oil in the top of the octopus and it was good for a show. It never squeeked again. Anyway running your "change over days" projector for longer than 20 minutes at a time could have it's problems.

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Greg Mueller
Amateur Astronomer, Machinist, Filmnut

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Bruce McGee
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1776
From: Asheville, NC USA... Nowhere in Particular.
Registered: Aug 1999


 - posted 08-25-2000 08:17 PM      Profile for Bruce McGee   Email Bruce McGee   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thanks Greg.

The Holmes has bearings that have to be oiled weekly with regular use, and grease that should be checked every 200 hours or so of use.

I used wheel bearing grease on the first rebuild, and a mix of grease and engine oil thickener on the second. #2 runs quieter. I have a quantity of 20w oil for the oil points, and an old Bell & Howell oiler that I use to push aside the little balls in the oiler caps

When I fired up the #2 Holmes, I missed oiling one of the intermittent bearings. It squeaked. After the oil got into it, it has never made another sound, other than being a Holmes with a 60 year old intermittent.

KEN: I'll check out the Kelmar rollers.

Bruce

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Greg Mueller
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1687
From: Port Gamble, WA
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 08-25-2000 10:29 PM      Profile for Greg Mueller   Author's Homepage   Email Greg Mueller   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Sorry, by "squeeked" I meant froze up.

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Greg Mueller
Amateur Astronomer, Machinist, Filmnut

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Stan Gunn
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 176
From: Clematis, in the hills near Melbourne Australia
Registered: Aug 2000


 - posted 08-26-2000 12:36 AM      Profile for Stan Gunn   Author's Homepage   Email Stan Gunn   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
HI GUYS
I have seen standard Simplex machines running
6000 ft spools and do so with one oiling
per night. and 2 sessions.
We have a localey made projector made by cummings and wilson, these machines have brass bearings an run towers,mutts,and platters. And have been for many years.
As a service man I found the secret is to use the correct type of oil in the older types of machines, modern oils dont always work.
regards Stan

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PROJECTIONISTS LOVE THIER CRAFT.
KANDY BAR KIDS JUST GET PAID.


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Jeff Stricker
Master Film Handler

Posts: 481
From: Calumet, Mi USA
Registered: Nov 1999


 - posted 08-26-2000 06:01 AM      Profile for Jeff Stricker   Email Jeff Stricker   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hi Bruce,

Don't be too troubled about the motor on your machine getting too hot. Electric motors are designed to operate with a large temperature rise without problems. My Simplex motor has a nameplate that says it operates with a 50 deg. C temp. rise. That's alot of increase! Also the word "cont" is stamped on it meaning continous duty. Jeff

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Scott Norwood
Film God

Posts: 8146
From: Boston, MA. USA (1774.21 miles northeast of Dallas)
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 08-26-2000 08:16 AM      Profile for Scott Norwood   Author's Homepage   Email Scott Norwood   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Semi-on-topic comment: my favorite reels are the 26" diameter ones with 7" floating hubs and 1/2" shafts. These are rare, but they're great because they hold four not-quite-full shipping reels' worth of film each and the 7" floating hubs are exteremely gentile on the film. I always tried to avoid using reels with 4" hubs for take-ups, as they tended to put a lot of stress on the film when they came up to speed--even floating-hub reels.

I find the 1/2" shafts to be a mixed blessing--they're sturdier than the 5/16" standard shafts, but they're also a real pain for when you want to run film on small reels. You either have to find 1/2" shaft 2000' house reels (rare and expensive), use large reels with only 2000' of film on each (cumbersome), or change out the shafts on the arms (time-consuming and potentially messy).

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John Walsh
Film God

Posts: 2490
From: Connecticut, USA, Earth, Milky Way
Registered: Oct 1999


 - posted 08-26-2000 09:24 AM      Profile for John Walsh   Email John Walsh   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Speaking of reels, Goldberg made all kinds of reel (not just for projection, either.) I don't know if they still make all the different types of projector reels, but it was kinda cool to look through their catalog.

We had those 35mm reels (that Gordon mentioned) with flanges on them for use on a 70mm spindle. They were really nice; they held 3000 ft, so you had plenty of room to put your trailers and stuff on the beginning, and they were made of cast aluminum (not a stamped sheet of aluminum) so they didn't bend so easily.

We also had the slip-hub, 7" dia reels Scott was mentioned. They were nice, too. On most Cinemecannicas, the motor starts up fast, so a slip-hub is actually required, especially on a V9.

Strangely, on a V8, if you used a small hub reel, it would not take up the film quite fast enough at start. That is, the film would come out of the projector at the same speed as the take-up reel wound it up. So the film would sag under the reel for a while until the diameter got bigger.


I went to Goldberg web site, and it's really not very good:
http://goldbergbrothers.uswestdex.com/

I've been using this link page for general projection stuff; it's pretty good;
http://www.geocities.com/Hollywood/Theater/3622/index.htm

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Bruce McGee
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1776
From: Asheville, NC USA... Nowhere in Particular.
Registered: Aug 1999


 - posted 08-26-2000 07:57 PM      Profile for Bruce McGee   Email Bruce McGee   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Jeff:

My motors are original GE and Emerson motors that are rated continuous with a 40 degree rise. All 3 of them have been torn down and thoroughly cleaned and lubricated. One of the GE's has been rewound locally and runs well. All 3 run at the same general temperature... around 125 degrees F.

I took a flywheel off of a treadmill and installed it between the motor and the coupler on one of the Holmes. It now starts a little more slowly, and slowly stops after I kill the power.

I'll take it off when I start doing changeovers due to the difference in start-up speeds, and the chance of tripping a breaker when the start winding is engaged a little too long.
I have 15 amp breakers on the 2 lines that the Holmes are plugged into... Just to be extra safe.

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