Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Leaders and end hooks

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Topic: Leaders and end hooks

Richard Quesnelle
Film Handler

Posts: 67
From: Penetang, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 07-19-2000 10:29 PM

Some of my centre rings on my Alpha 5 platter system seem to hook my end better than ohters. I always seem to have to splice off that end piece of the leader and fold another piece to hook on the centre ring. Is there any tricks on making the end hooks?

Also I imagine most of you make your on leaders out of trailer pieces, ie the countdown section. Where do you find the clear sections? And how long do leaders normally last before you need to replace it
(because of wear, etc.)

Thanks Rich

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99

posted 07-19-2000 11:44 PM

Most operators who use that type of platter I've seen lay 3 layers of splicing tape on each side of that first frame on the leader. That seems to do the trick quite nicely.

On a Christie platter, I like to intentionally make a bad splice (one that has a gap and "hinges") for the very first frame of leader. It makes it extremely easy for the slot in the center ring to catch it and speeds up threading.

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Dustin Mitchell
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1865
From: Mondovi, WI, USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 07-20-2000 01:11 AM

What of the idea of using countdowns from old trailers as the leader? This seems like a good idea.

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Randy Stankey
Film God

Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99

posted 07-20-2000 01:37 AM

I don't hook the end of the film. I use SPECO. You can't really do that.

I just pull about 3 feet of leader up onto the platter and give the deck a spin. The film gets taken around and it makes a lap around the ring. A gentle pull on the "standing" part of the leader and the end pinches between the ring and the next lap. The friction is enough to hold it. After a couple more laps, you can even build up. I've never hd any problems doing it that way.

You can sorta' do it on the Strong/Potts but since the ring is smaller there isn't as much surface area to "grab" the leader.

I've heard "tips" that you can use velcro "dots" but I see no use for them.

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99

posted 07-20-2000 02:29 AM

The velcro strips were actually my idea and spread around Cinemark by booth trainer Charlie Johnson. You wouldn't think they would save much time...but they really do.

For those interested, get a "box" of velcro in a long roll and place a strip 2 inches long (fuzzy side) just inside the center ring on the right hand side of the opening. Then, place a strip however long you desire (I did 2 inches here as well, some use precut dots) on the very tip of the leader on the emulsion side (assuming you run soundtrack up) using the rough side of the velcro. When you thread, just slap the leader on the inside of the ring. It will NEVER come loose as you are threading and there will be no more "slippage" that can cause the takeup elevator to slam all the way to the top of the post, breaking the rollers off.

Note: place the velcro on the RIGHT side of the opening. If you mount the velcro on the left side of the opening, the film must be bent backwards 180 degrees to be attached and will break even the strongest mylar leader fairly quickly.

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Dave Cutler
Master Film Handler

Posts: 277
From: Centennial, CO
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 07-20-2000 09:24 AM

What I do is...

Fold 5 perfs of the head of the leader over onto itself. Giving you an overlapped section of 5 perfs. Then splice the overlapped section to the leader. From there I just fold 2 or 3 perfs to use as the hook. Holds better and lasts longer because it is twice as thick.

If leader is not abused it can last a long time. Usually I only have to buy new leader when I just trained a new guy. They make minor mistakes that mess up the leader, but it's to be expected.

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