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Is there something else out there that we can read on it?-
Yes, look at the manual download page

Do you rewind it?
No, it only goes in one direction, power by the film passing through.

Where do you get more of the cleaner rollers from?
From any motion picture equipment supplier.

Do you buy them in bulk?
Yes, it the cheapest way, but I'm sure a dealer will sell smaller quanities. The smallest I've seen is 20 per box.

How long should they last/ be used?
If run dry, they should only be used once. The dirt gets on one side while cleaning, but it then wraps around the take-up spindle, getting the dirt on both sides. If they are wet (soaked with a cleaner) some people will use it 2-3 times, but I don't suggest it.

Should we use it every show?
No. First, only use it if you can see the film is getting really dirty. Remember that professional 35mm film cleaners cost $50,000. The Kelmar film cleaner costs much less, so don't think it will do everything. When run dry, I have seen many films actually look worse after being run through a film cleaner. A little bit of grit can get stuck in there and scratch several feet of film before the media carries it away. The best way to keep the film clean is not to let it dirty in the first place.

I haven't tried Film Guard, but several people have and really like it. It's easy to use. Also, the guy who created it is right here, and can answer any questions- which is something many other dealers can't do with their stuff. Lastly, it's really not that expensive to just buy a bottle and try it.

If you are running the pads "dry" (as they come), NEVER attempt to reuse the media (rolls of cloth). If you do, you will most probably scratch your prints. If you use FilmGuard (instructions are supplied with the bottle), you will be able to reuse those cleaning rolls for an entire week without fear of scratching.

Media is sold in boxes of 16 rolls (8 pairs) from Neumade, Kelmar and Film-Tech. Reviews of these are on the site by Joe Redifer (click "reviews" below). If you will be using FilmGuard, the Film-Tech pads are definitely desirable as they come on the special cores designed to rewind the pads. If you will be running them dry, Film-Tech pads come with an anti-stat coating to help prevent static. Kelmar's "green" pads also come with an anti-stat. Just ask your normal cinema supplier prices and availability.

The biggest mistake most people make with media cleaners is they remove the takeup cores from the takeup shafts when they change the media. Many parts get lost this way and the cleaner will cease to function. Instead, loosen the thumbscrews so the takeup cores can spin freely and simply pull the cloth off of the takeup core and keep reusing the takeup core until it falls apart. At that point, go ahead and load up new takeup cores.

There is no way to adjust the speed of the cleaner, and there is no need to. Remember, the rolls of media are for "one pass". Rethreading the cleaners without loading new pads between each show (if running dry) or failing to rewind the existing pads after each show (if running wet with FilmGuard) will most certainly guarantee the cloth will run out and you will scratch your prints.

Tip: if you are using Christie platters, remove the center brain roller and pull that spring out of the underside. It exerts too much tension and can scratch film during cleaning.

Also, this may be a "no duh" kind of thing, but when loading new media onto the cleaner, you must tape the head end of the cloth down to the takeup cores AND don't forget to tighten the thumbscrews...or the cloth will not advance. That's a very bad thing.

I must disagree with one point you made above. Waiting until the film "needs" cleaning is too late. At that point, the dirt is embedded into the emulsion and will not come out with normal "theater level" equipment and will require specialized techniques such as ultrasonic cleaning and rewashing.

Instead, the idea is to prevent the buildup of dirt on the film. Just because you cannot see the dirt on screen does not mean it is not there. Take a print that has been running for a few weeks that still looks "fine" and run it through a cleaner (soaked in FilmGuard will really show you how dirty it was) and you will see what I mean.

Also, I've ran torture tests with FilmGuard using the pads until they tore and fell apart...no scratches. While I certainly do not recommend pushing the media pads that far, there are plenty of other people on the forum who can vouch for that statement as well. As for using other cleaners (say Renovex), those were designed to evaporate quickly and is not a good idea. In that instance of "wet" cleaning, I will agree with not reusing the pads.

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I've havn't tried FG, so my comment about using it only refers to using it while dry.

If used dry, I feel that it starts to do more harm than good. It's kind of like people who insist of cleaning lenses- then one day you notice the all the bluing is gone.

Now I didn't mean to wait until the image looks like there's a 'rainstorm' going on. I've seen people start using it on the films opening day. I see fine scratches on prints run through too often. I just meant not to start using it too quickly.

Using media wet with a film lubricant (like FilmGuard) reduces the risk of scratching, even if an abrasive particle is picked up. If you reuse the media, discard it when there is noticable dirt buildup, especially if the dirt is abrasive.

Particle Transfer Roller (PTR) film cleaners are also very effective in removing loose particulate dirt. They do need to be cleaned between shows, by washing with mild detergent and water (then rinsed and dried). Some projectionists remove the dirt by carefully picking it off with adhesive tape. If PTRs become overloaded with dirt, they lose their effectiveness. Because of their soft "cushy" surface and rolling contact, PTRs have very low risk of abrasion, even if they pick up abrasive dirt. They also leave no residue on the film. Because of their low risk and lack of residue, PTRs are widely used by film labs and film-to-video transfer facilities, even for cleaning negatives. They are also widely used by special venue theatres (e.g. IMAX theatres).

I totally agree with Brad that it is best to clean prints EVERY show, rather than wait for dirt to build up. Removing the dirt every show prevents it from being embedded in the film when the film is wound up.

------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com

Now I'm running Nuemade "Neutronic" platters and Simplexes. (Whenever I see the name "Neutronic," I think of an anxious or obsessive platter.) We have two cleaners, an old one and a new one. I have to watch which one they use, because the old one runs through a roll in about 2 1/2 hours, while the new one is geared slower and lasts about 4 hours.

<slight rant mode>

I know this sounds awful, but I have to try to think a few steps ahead when I train someone. For example, I showed a guy how to use the film cleaner (admittedly this was 10 years ago.) A few weeks later, not only has he decided to stop cleaning the projector, but he tells others not to bother, either ("The cleaner will take care of it!") It took several weeks to find out who he trained that way, and straighten everyone out. I always have to think: what if this person takes what I show him to an extreme?

Now, I don't want to take that ideology too far (especially here) but I just sort of don't want anyone to think a cleaner will take care of everything.

I've mentioned my training mentally and reasons in previous posts. People have e-mailed me privately and said (good naturedly) "What kind of place have you got there?!" I laugh, but I'll tell you; technical labor is a *big* problem here in the N. East. With almost every other industry offering more money, we can't compete. When I find a technical person who would be perfect, they loose interest when they hear the pay, and then bolt out the door when they hear they have to do projection and sweep floors.

Abrasion of the film edges and perforations by the projector usually generates some dirt, evident by the "tracks" of dirt in those areas. In many cases, prints get cleaner with multiple cleanings, as dirt is removed and areas subjected to projector abrasion are "burnished".

You can even examine the collected debris under a microscope, and sometimes determine the origin: magenta skivings tend to be emulsion, white powder is usually scuffed film base, other dirt includes skin flakes, hair, clothing/carpet fibers, cardboard (from shipping containers) metal filings, roller/core plastic, cigarette ashes, and ambient "dust". Kodak was once asked to analyze some debris on film, and found "hemp" fibers. Don't know what kind of "hemp" .

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