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This topic comprises 2 pages: 1 2
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Author
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Topic: The Novice File!
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Dave Bird
Jedi Master Film Handler
Posts: 777
From: Perth, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 06-14-2000 03:28 PM
Yes, I have downloaded the XL manual. I just
can't get my printer to give me very clear shots of the pictures, and threading. Also, I suppose because XL's were prodcuced for many years, there are a few differences. My machines were set up for upward throws (and the oil bath works fine), however the oil sight is in the front (not back as they say). So as I topped it up (through the flip
lid on the sight?????), I wasn't sure on the level. So I've had some drip out the plastic
sprocket out at the side. I assuming I filled too full. But I did use Simplex oil. The fellow I bought them from said they no longer made it, and that I'd have to use motor oil when I run out of Simplex. Thanks for your replies. This is exactly why I bought them, to learn. ------------------
Dave Bird
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Tim Reed
Better Projection Pays
Posts: 5246
From: Northampton, PA
Registered: Sep 1999
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posted 06-15-2000 07:02 AM
Dave, I'm emailing you a picture of the rear oil sight ass'y. It will be interesting to find out if you can still get this kit from Strong. I can't imagine why your machines don't have them, since they already have the "drive-in" oil intake.At any rate, you only need enough oil to just cover the intake filter. You can look down into the gear side of the machine to determine this, if you have to. ------------------
Better Projection Pays!
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Tim Reed
Better Projection Pays
Posts: 5246
From: Northampton, PA
Registered: Sep 1999
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posted 06-16-2000 01:47 PM
Dave, I'm actually referring to the sump. It has a little fine-mesh brass screen filter at the end, sits in the oil reservoir, and is connected by a small metal tube to the oil pump. It resembles a small flat cylinder, about 1/2" in diameter.As you face the gear compartment, it should be located inside, at the bottom on the right (the intake on an indoor version would be on the left). The oil level should just cover the top of the filter. Short of checking it visually, drain everything out, put in a few ounces of fresh oil, and turn the motor on. If the oil begins spraying pretty good and consistently on the glass, you've got enough oil in it. If it fails to spray (don't let it run more than 7 or 8 seconds with no spray), turn it off and add more until it does. Then add a l-i-t-t-l-e bit more for a margin of safety. ------------------
Better Projection Pays!
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Pat Moore
Master Film Handler
Posts: 363
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 06-17-2000 07:22 AM
Dave;
Sounds like you're having fun and congratulations on your efforts.
I do feel a bit of sensitivity on oil -- the proper oil for a Simplex Projector is a Capella type -- it's actually more of a hydraulic fluid and lubricant. It was specified long ago because it's thin (easy to pump), and the word from Howard Straight (Mr. Simplex) was that its molecule size allowed it to run between the mated surfaces of the star and cam in the intermittent. Other oil types can't get in that space to lubricate. Regular motor oil of any kind is used only in a pinch, 10Wt NON-DETERGENT only. I've found it gums up the intermittent after a long period of time.
That said, I have had very good luck with the synthetic oils, Mobil One or similar -- again, the lightest weight you can find and always NON-DETERGENT. Howard liked that stuff very much -- a good enough recommendation for me.
If you have down-angled projection very little oil is required in the mechanism's sump, just enough to cover the intake tube in the screen when running. The pick-up should be in the front of the machine, of course.
I'm not sure of the "whipping" noise. If this is an older Simplex, there's a governor on top of the vertical shaft that also splashes the oil around. If the governor and fire shutter have been removed, there is just an impeller up there to move oil. You might look at the little drip tube that drops oil into the intermittent, right next to the flywheel. If it's slightly mis-aligned it might run against the flywheel and make some noise not common to the machine. And if you're worried about a "whipping noise", you've got a very quiet machine and did a great job getting them together. So, how's the picture?
Best of luck...
Pat
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Tim Reed
Better Projection Pays
Posts: 5246
From: Northampton, PA
Registered: Sep 1999
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posted 06-17-2000 12:42 PM
Dave, sounds like they didn't need the drive-in conversion. You will need it, though, if you're going to have a negative projection angle of more than a few degress.Pat, is the drive-in oil "kit" still available for this machine? Tim
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Better Projection Pays!
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