BTW, John at Kodak-Thanks for still making Kodacrome 40.

Actually, I modified a 70mm Kelmar dry web cleaner exactly for this and made a mount for it to go on the platter...yes, a Super 8mm platter (take that Steve G!). FilmGuard was the only way to run Super 8mm with a Christie 2000 watt lamphouse behind the Beaulieu 7008EL, to keep the film from burning...and it worked beautifully.

You sir, are sick, very sick!!

 |  IP: Logged

 |  IP: Logged

 |  IP: Logged

 |  IP: Logged

 |  IP: Logged

 |  IP: Logged

 |  IP: Logged

 |  IP: Logged

That ORC 1000 watt integrated lamphouse seen in the "16mm on a platter" link at the Picture Warehouse was originally used with the Beaulieu and when butted up right against the Beaulieu also worked well, although not quite as intense as that Christie.

Pictures are somewhere, but I'm not sure where. I was trying to dig them out a couple of months ago for posting and couldn't find them. Basically it looked very similar to the pics of the ORC1000 and Kodak Pageant listed above, except with a Beaulieu projector and Christie lamp. The big wooden board was the "alignment/base" board. There are 4 slightly cut out spots for the projector's feet to dock down into and the lamphouse slid on a track much like standard 35mm pedestals have (seen clearly on the 3rd pic). All that is required for setup is to place the board on a solid surface, dock the projector's feet into the half cut holes, dock the lamphouse in the track and slide up until it "bumps" up against the back side of the projector. With the 16mm version, that's all that was needed. With the Super 8mm version and Christie 2000 watt lamp, external forced intake and exhaust blowers had to be attached to the projector, but the actual physical alignment was preset and only the lamp needed to be focused. A lens holder of some sort can be made at the front to hold a Magnacom or anamorphic (as seen in the pic). Also, the Beaulieu is an ideal Super 8mm machine as it can output the film in the front just like the Kodak Pageant 16mm.

The only drawback of the system is if you need to angle the projector up or down, you must angle the entire board to prevent losing your light (as if you used the elevating feet on the front would do). I typically set it up so there is a slight shadow on the top masking, then "fine tune" the vertical projected image on the screen with those feet once a test film is running.