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First, I was told never to use degreaser, but that was on my old Simplexes, so that may not apply to everyone.

I clean out my projectors after every show with a shop rag and, if necessary, compressed CO2. On a weekly basis, I think it's a good idea to go into the crevases with Q-tips and alcohol.

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Five warnings with this stuff:
1. Don't get it in your eyes.
2. Don't get it in a cut. (You'll know if you do!).
3. Don't get it on a lens element.
4. Be careful not to get it on the plastic oil-site windows such as those used on Century intermittents, or Simplex heads. (It'll fog them up).
5. Always try a test in an inconspicuous corner of something you want to clean to check for any adverse reaction. (It will take the (labels off the Speco platter switch covers).

NONONONONOOOOOO!

You are inviting *DISASTER* if you get carbuertor cleaner into any sealed bearing assemblies (Century soundheads and projector head mainshafts come immediately to mind)... And it does a pretty good job of removing paint from the inside of a projector... If you MUST use a volatile cleaner, apply it to a rag or cloth and wipe the projector out that way, DON'T just start drenching the projector with the stuff...

Also, one thing to be VERY weary of is spraying ANYTHING into a projector. Even chemicals as mild as rubbing alcohol can cause damage to the machine.

I agree with you that the stuff can be determental to oil seals and bearings, which is why I recommended caution to anyone who elects to use the stuff. I have used the cleaner (with due care) on Ballantyne, Simplex and Century interiors without stripping any paint. It particularly comes in handy when dis-assembling a projector or soundhead gear assembly.

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I personally use Diesel fuel as a grease solvent when I rebuild projector heads for both soaking the parts as well as cleaning the built up grease deposits, it won't harm paint or nylon/fiber gears like 'carbueretor dip', or some other solvents, and the results are incredible! ( of course I have removed ALL sealed bearings and assemblies containing such)

IF THE PROJ. HAS FILMGUARD, YOU ONLY NEED TO DO THAT EVERY ONCE IN A WHILE.

To clean the traps I use a fingernail or one of those little plastic scrapers that you get from the lottery to scratch off instant tickets. Then I use a paintbrush to clean out the nooks and cranies, followed by a Q-Tip and Xe-Kote

AGAIN, IF THE PROJ. HAS FILM-GUARD, ALL I DO IS WIPE WITH A SHOP CLOTH AND GO. (YOU DON'T EVEN HAVE TO DO IT EVERY DAY.)

I stopped using a toothbrush 1) because it bends up the intermittent 'skis',etc. and 2) it takes too long and you can do just as good a job with a paint brush.

I don't remember which side it eats but can cause more buildup on your gate bands.

Don't use XeKote at all.