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Author Topic: best blooping ink?
Scott Norwood
Film God

Posts: 7929
From: Boston, MA. USA (1774.21 miles northeast of Dallas)
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 07-31-1999 09:08 AM      Profile for Scott Norwood   Author's Homepage   Email Scott Norwood   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
What do other people do to "bloop" optical tracks at lab splices or old, separated tape splices? Right now, I'm just using a black Sharpie, which is marginally effective. Is there anything better that is readily available? I have an old Neumade catalog from the 1940s which includes several types of bloop punches and something called movietone ink for this purpose, although I haven't seen either product available in any current catalogs that I have, and I doubt that the punches would be desirable on Dolby tracks.

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9431
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 07-31-1999 10:53 AM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Kodak makes a black india ink that adheres well.
I usually cut a diamond of black tape and place it over the splice under the splicing tape and that is more than suficient for silent splices.

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17638
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 07-31-1999 05:48 PM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
One theater I used to work for just used electrical tape. I thought it odd, but they said it never wore off. (Just repeating what I saw...not necessarily endorsing it.) Personally I'd rather attempt to remove the tape (usually older prints are assembled with cheap tape) and remake the splice, cutting one frame off, off-center to make an overlap splice. I find the "thump" of the LF drivers from blooping tape more annoying than a one frame loss.

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9431
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 07-31-1999 07:22 PM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
A cautionary not on overlapped splices if you have a simplex Xl with the straight gate and the turret that opensitself before it rotates any overlap will cause the pressure bar on the straight gate to push the top of the bar into the perfs and it is game over. The same problem on Prevost P55's
It isn't pretty with estar film when that happens

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 08-04-1999 12:09 PM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
A dye-based ink (e.g., Sharpie pen) may look opaque, but may be relatively transparent to infrared light. So it won't totally block the sound, except on a red LED reader.

To tell if your ink (or tape) is effective in blocking all the light, coat a piece of clear film with the ink, and use it as a filter in the light beam of the soundhead. If you still hear some sound, the ink is not opaque to the sound signal.

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